Nov 3, 2011
Greece has big troubles. The country is on the brink of bankruptcy that will probably take it out of the eurozone and back to the old, cheap dracma. Greeks are angry this period, they get on the streets, protesting almost in daily basis, often in a violent way. Greeks feel not acceptable in our own country. Austerity measures, lack of jobs, extra taxes and a sense of hopelessness make almost everybody thinking: “maybe should I move somewhere else?”
In the same time, Greece remains a wonderful country. Despite the negative publicity from the strikes and protests that fill the international headlines for one and a half year now, tourism grew by 10% in 2011. This means that more than 16 million people will visit Greece this year. If you are one of them, be sure you will enjoy your stay, even if you have to wait in the plane to Corfu or Santorini due to a flight controllers’ strike.
So, our country is still ideal for your summer holidays. What about living there permanently? If you ask any Greek will definitely tell you “no, no, no, don’t even think about this!” Greek citizens as well as Greek expatriates around the world consider our own country good only for summer, sea, meze and ouzo but not for working there. I agree on that but let me tell you this.
If you don’t need to make it for living in Greece, if you are a wealthy investor or simply retired and have a secured monthly income, this is the country for you.
Let me give you 10 good reasons that support my theory. Plus 10 useful tips, what to avoid in order to have a better life…
Weather is great! Northern Greece may get chilly during winter (famous Nevrokopi village gets easily under -10C) but Athens, Peloponese and the islands are pleasant all year round. Weather varies dramatically from place to place. I often say to my friends that for 1-2 weekends on spring time, snow may be present on the mountains, like Parnasos, and people enjoying a bit of skiing, while 50 kms away, on the beach, other may get the first swim of the year. This is Greece actually!
What to avoid: Malakasa, a village north of Attica plane gets very cold and snowy different times a year and the national highway that passes from there may get closed to traffic for 1-2 days! Also, avoid the islands or any touristic region during August and the major ski resorts during peak weekends around Christmas.
Countryside is beautiful, varied and empty. You can live in the countryside and visit from time big cities like Athens or Thessaloniki staying at a vantage point. Good thing about Greece is that its countryside is empty, at least during working days. You drive 70-80 km. outside the capital and you meet remote villages with few or no inhabitants. Greek countryside is like a theater that opens every weekend and closes from Monday. Do you want to be close to Athens? Stay in Evia island or at Nafplio or in a close saronikos island like Egina. To be close to Thessaloniki, find a rental at Halkidiki Peninsula, in Edessa to the west or Kavala to the east. Volos, Ioannina and Xanthi are great little towns to live. Volos is on a nice gulf overshadowed by the picturesque villages of Pelion. Ioannina features a nice lake and is located amid Pindos mountain range, the longest and most rugged part of Greece. Xanthi has a picturesque old center, has a large Muslim community and is next to majestic Nestos river (where there is the nicest train route in Europe) and the “Virgin Forest” of Rodopi range.
What to avoid: Don’t even thing about staying in Athens or Thessaloniki, where cost of life is higher and traffic unbearable sometimes.
Mediterranean Food: Be sure you will eat and drink well in Greece and this may give you some more years of life. Local dishes are based on olive oil, use minimum of carries and freshness is the epitome of the cuisine, whether it regards fish, salad or fruits. Classic mussaka maybe the most publicized Greek staple but is not the best one. Remember Gemista (stuffed tomatoes, peppers), Kokinisto, Fakes (lentils), Yuvetsi, Bekri Meze etc. Also, meze, the Greek tapas, is the ultimate experience if you find the right place, with the right company. Ouzo, tsipuro and local wines will be there for the rest of your life and remember this: according to statistics, life expectancy in Greece is longer than anywhere else, 78 years.
What to avoid: the classic, touristic restaurants, everywhere foreigners stroll, from Plaka and Monastiraki in Athens, to Nafplio, Corfu, Rhodes or Mykonos. You can easily recognize them from the dounle language, plastic covered menu (possibly with pictures of the plates) and the standard contents.
Real Estate gets cheaper: financial crisis has resulted to a serious decrease of prices in real estate, after two decades of skyrocketing prices. There are more than 30.000 new houses unsold only in Athens and many more anywhere else. If you bargain hard (Greeks seem to be very proud of their property despite they face bankruptcy) you can find a nice country house for far less than 70-80.000 euros. Cash is better! Or you can rent one for less than 300.
What to avoid: old houses in traditional villages that need restoration. Local law for traditional settlement is very strict and authorities notorious for their corrupted employees, who can make your life hell till they sign a building permit.
Mountain, beach or both? In other countries you have to choose, in Greece you don’t need. Mountains are where the beaches lie and beaches one hour road from any snowcapped mountain. Examples? Delhi region and Parnassos from Galaxidi. Mount Athos from the crystalline Chalkidiki beaches. And ofcourse Olympus mountain of Gods, Is lying over some of the most popular beach resorts in Greece
People are smart! Sometimes very smart. It doesn’t matter if you speak to an old man from a remote village or to a black dressed lady, they should speak some English, possibly from their experience with Hollywood movies (all movies are subtitled in Greece). Greeks will surprise you in more ways. They read a lot and they know much about everything in the world; the American presidents, the Hollywood stars, the latin America civil wars, the African dictators, the European scandals. If you get around any greek cafeteria, youngsters or oldies may talk about everything while drinking their Greek, frappe or freddo coffee… This period though, expect people to be more concentrated to their own problems; Crisis, Troika, Papandreou, Merkel, IMF are the main – if not only – current issues that locals talk about.
What to avoid: political conversations about “Macedonia” (Skopje for Greeks), Turkey, Cyprus, Albanians etc. You can talk actually, have a fight with locals and get together again if you say the magic phrase, something like… “politicians are bandits everywhere!” Also, avoid watching TV in Greece. News last for hours and include lengthy debates for days about the issue of the week.
Law enforcement is erratic. Which means you can bend the law. Are you speeding? Just ask for forgiveness from the police officer and you will get out of it without a fine. Did you have a loud party late night? Just invite neighbors and you will be OK. Greek state is traditionally very loose but for financial reasons it became much more strict lately. Better behave as a foreigner, even if the locals have the “tooth” (slung for connection to the authorities).
What to avoid: don’t even think about bribing a police officer. But if you have relations with the tax office, probably you will need to do so one day…
Internet is fast, mobile phones & Sat TV are everywhere: you can be nicely connected in Greece. 8mbps internet is standard almost everywhere and a decent connection doesn’t cost more than 20 euros per month. Mobile phones are… for free if you oblige for a contract Number but prepaid cards are better if you don’t speak for hours every day. SAT TV (Nova or Conn-X) is a must to avoid the yellow local channels.
Relaxed, joyful lifestyle: Greeks know how to have fun, even now that they run out of money. At noon you will see hundreds of café full of students who pay 3-4 euros for a coffee and they do this every day, twice a day! Taverns and restaurant are hit by the crisis but they are still more busy than anywhere in Europe. Greek night clubs are open only during weekends
What to avoid: don’t pay for a coffee more than 2,5 euros! Don’t go to Mykonos during August and Spring weekends. Don’t go out by car in Athens or Thessaloniki, Saturday night – traffic jam Is a must. Don’t order big fishes in fancy fishing restaurants – the bill will be something like the Greek… debt.
Culture everywhere: we don’t talk only about classic Greek culture, Parthenon, Delphi etc. Modern Greek culture is omnipresent in every town. Dance, music, graphic arts, everything is flourishing in this country.
What to avoid: very alternative Greek movies – you will be disappointed if not asleep in the theater.
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Hello Akis and Vula our beloved Overlanders,
Some very good advice and like your mantra “Just Live Your Adventure”!!!
The soul and character of Greece will transcend the financial crisis, and the best way we can help Greece get back on its feet is to visit the country and sample first-hand its delights. Then everyone benefits.
I, for one, cannot wait to go off the beaten track again in the rugged countryside of the Pindus mountain range; referred to as the last unexplored alpine region of Europe.
In Australia we have a favourite expression of “do yourself a favour” so do visit the Tzoumerka mountains and the Vikos Gorge. You’ll be absolutely delighted!
Penny